Question 1

Are you licensed and insured to do key work on a 2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee L?

Accepted Answer

Yes. EZ Car Keyz holds a California BSIS locksmith company license (LCO#6792) and is fully insured. The 2021 Grand Cherokee L is one of those jobs where the equipment and access level matter. The vehicle's security architecture requires a professional-grade programmer that can complete the security handshake before a new key gets registered. Not every locksmith has that, which is why you'll occasionally hear "only the dealer can do this" on newer Jeeps. That's not accurate -- it just takes the right tools and someone who has done it. We have both. If you want to verify credentials before I show up, ask. I'll give you the license number to check directly with the state.

Question 2

How do I know I'm not going to get scammed on a Jeep key job?

Accepted Answer

Fair question. The pattern with scam locksmiths on newer Jeep calls usually goes like this: low quote on the phone, they show up, cut the blade, then claim they can't program it and still charge for the cut. You're now out money and still need to go to the dealer.

Here's how to protect yourself. Ask for a firm, all-in price before anyone touches your vehicle. Ask if they have the equipment to complete programming on a 2021 Grand Cherokee L specifically. If they hesitate, that's your answer.

With EZ Car Keyz, the price I quote on the phone is the price. You can also look us up on YouTube and TikTok -- there are over 100,000 followers watching us do this exact kind of work, on camera. The job either gets done right or I tell you honestly what's going on. Nobody gets charged for half a job.

Question 3

Will a replacement key work exactly like the original factory fob?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Every function gets programmed and every function gets tested before I hand you the key. That means passive entry on the door handles, push-button start, remote lock and unlock, the emergency blade -- all of it.

Partial failures are more common than people realize. A fob that took a hard drop, for example, might still lock and unlock remotely but lose its passive entry detection entirely. That's not a battery issue, it's a registration or hardware issue. Testing every function individually before the job is closed is the only way to know you have a complete, working key. I don't consider the job done until each function checks out.

Question 4

I have one key left for my Grand Cherokee L. Can you add a second without losing the first?

Accepted Answer

Yes, and this is exactly the right time to do it. Adding a key while you still have a working one on hand is a simpler job than all-keys-lost. The existing key stays registered, and the new one gets added alongside it. Both work when it's done.

All-keys-lost on the 2021 Grand Cherokee L is a different situation. It's still a job I handle on site, but the security access sequence takes longer because the system has no reference key to work from. If you're already down to one fob, don't wait until that one walks off or stops working. Adding a spare now is faster, and you won't be stuck somewhere without options.

Question 5

My Grand Cherokee L shows a key warning on the dash but the fob battery is fine. What's actually going on?

Accepted Answer

This comes up on these vehicles. A key-not-detected warning with a known-good battery points in a few directions.

First, check the fob itself. The internal antenna and circuit board can develop issues after a drop, even if the fob looks fine on the outside. Second, the vehicle's antenna system -- the components that detect the fob's presence inside and outside the vehicle -- can develop faults that show up as inconsistent detection, especially near the driver's door or in the push-button start area.

There are also cases where a fob that was working fine ends up with a corrupted registration. This can happen after a battery swap that briefly interrupted communication at the wrong moment. In that case the fob needs to be re-registered to the vehicle.

If the warning is intermittent and position-dependent (worse near one door, fine near another), that points more toward an antenna or wiring issue than the fob itself. If it's consistent everywhere, start with re-registration. Either way, a diagnostic connection tells you quickly which direction you're going.

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