Question 1

What is the cheapest way to replace a key for a 2000 Volkswagen Golf?

Accepted Answer

Call a mobile locksmith before you call the dealer. VW dealers typically require the car on their lot, proof of ownership through their own verification process, and then order the key through their parts system. The wait plus the labor plus the programming access adds up fast. With me, you get the key built and programmed on site, wherever the car is, for way less than the dealer route. No tow, no waiting on parts, no separate line items for the blade cut, the fob, and the programming. One call, one visit, done.

Question 2

How much more does an all-keys-lost job cost versus just adding a spare?

Accepted Answer

More. Every time.

When you still have a working key for a 2000 Golf, adding a spare means the immobilizer can see a trusted key during the process. It's cleaner, faster, and less labor.

When all keys are gone, the job changes. The immobilizer has no reference point. Depending on the setup, that can mean pulling data from the cluster or control module, working from the OBD port with the right equipment, and generating credentials from scratch before a single new key can be enrolled. More time, more steps, higher cost.

The real-world gap between a spare key job and an all-keys-lost job on a car this age is significant. The honest advice is always the same: while you have a working key in your hand, get a spare made. That one call now saves you real money and a stressful night later.

Question 3

Are aftermarket VW keys cheaper and do they actually work on a 2000 Golf?

Accepted Answer

On a car this age, aftermarket shells and fob bodies are fine. The 2000 Golf platform is older and well-documented, so the parts supply is decent. Where it gets unreliable is the transponder chip inside the key head. Some aftermarket chips work, some arrive already problematic, and there's no way to know until you're in the middle of programming and something doesn't respond right.

I use components I've verified for this vehicle specifically. If something fails during programming, I know it's not because of a questionable chip from a grab bag. That matters when you're standing in a parking lot at night and need the car to start.

Question 4

My 2000 Golf starts fine but the remote buttons stopped working. Do I need a whole new key?

Accepted Answer

Probably not. The remote and the transponder are independent functions in that flip key body. If the car starts, the transponder is fine. Dead or weak remote function on a car this age usually comes down to three things: a worn-out CR2032, a cracked solder joint on the circuit board inside the fob from years of being dropped or squeezed, or a receiver issue on the car's side.

Start with the battery. If a fresh CR2032 doesn't bring it back, open the fob and look at the board. A hairline crack in the solder around the battery contacts or the buttons is common on keys this old. That can sometimes be addressed without replacing the whole key. If the board looks intact and a new battery does nothing, the problem may be the receiver module on the vehicle rather than the key itself.

Question 5

The car starts but immediately stalls. Could this be the immobilizer even though I'm using my original key?

Accepted Answer

Yes. That exact symptom, starts and stalls within a second or two, is a classic sign the vehicle security system is cutting the engine after a momentary start. On a 2000 Golf, this can happen when the transponder chip in the key has weakened, when there's interference near the ignition cylinder antenna ring, or when the immobilizer control side has lost its pairing to the key.

It can also happen on keys that look and feel perfectly fine. The chip doesn't announce when it's degrading.

This is something I diagnose on site. If your original key is doing this, don't assume the key is fine just because it's original. Bring me out, I'll read what the system is actually seeing, and we'll know exactly what needs to happen next.

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