Question 1

How do I spot a fake locksmith before I get ripped off?

Accepted Answer

Three things to watch for. First, they won't give you a firm price for your specific vehicle over the phone. Second, they show up in an unmarked car with no visible business name. Third, they push cash only and the number jumps once they're already on-site.

For a job as simple as cutting a replacement key for a 2016 Ridgeline, a real locksmith can quote you a clear price before arriving. Ask for their California locksmith license number and look it up on the Bureau of Security and Investigative Services site. Takes about 30 seconds. If they hesitate, that tells you everything.

Question 2

What exactly is a mechanical key and why does the 2016 Ridgeline use one?

Accepted Answer

It's a metal key, cut to fit your specific locks and ignition. No remote, no fob, no buttons. The 2016 Ridgeline on the base trim shipped with exactly this setup.

Replacement is a cutting job, not a programming job. I match the blade to your vehicle by key code from the VIN or by decoding the lock directly. That's the whole process.

Question 3

What equipment do you use to cut a replacement key for the Ridgeline?

Accepted Answer

For a mechanical key job like this one, the main tools are a code database to pull the cut spec from the VIN, a quality key cutter to run the blank, and a set of picks in case there's any extraction needed first. No OBD port, no laptop, no programming interface involved.

The blank itself matters too. A poorly made aftermarket blank can feel right coming off the cutter but wear the wafers unevenly over time. I stock quality blanks that fit the Ridgeline's cylinder correctly so the key turns clean and doesn't cause wear down the road.

Question 4

I only have one key for my 2016 Ridgeline. Is it worth getting a spare cut now, or should I wait until I actually need one?

Accepted Answer

Get the spare now. Here's the practical reason: as long as you have a working key in hand, I can use the key code from your VIN and cut a duplicate directly. Fast job, no complications.

If you lose that one key first, the job changes. I'd need to decode the lock or pull the code another way, which adds time. And if the key ever breaks off in the cylinder, there's an extraction step before anything else happens. A spare cut today costs you very little. The all-keys-lost version of this job costs more in both time and money.

Question 5

My key is turning stiffly in the ignition. Do I need a new key or is something wrong with the cylinder?

Accepted Answer

Could be either, but start with the key. A worn or poorly duplicated key can develop edge rounding over years of use and start catching on the wafers instead of lifting them cleanly. Try your other key if you have one. If that turns fine, the blade on your main key has worn and a fresh cut on a new blank solves it.

If both keys are stiff, the cylinder itself is the more likely suspect. Cylinders can dry out or develop worn wafers, especially on a truck that's seen regular use. That's a different job, but still something a mobile locksmith can handle on-site in Downtown Santee without a dealer visit.

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