Question 1

My key broke in the ignition. Can you get it out?

Accepted Answer

Yes, broken key extraction on this generation Elantra is a job I handle on site. The ignition cylinder on late-90s Hyundais is a traditional barrel style, which actually gives better access for extraction than some newer setups. The key blade snapping inside the cylinder is the most common scenario, usually from a worn blade or a stiff cylinder that someone forced.

The goal is to get the broken piece out without damaging the cylinder. In most cases that works and the cylinder stays intact. Once the blade is out, I cut a new one and handle the transponder side so the replacement actually starts the car. If the cylinder itself is damaged in the process or was already worn past the point of saving, a cylinder replacement becomes part of the conversation, but that is not usually where it ends up.

Question 2

What exactly is a remote head key and what does mine do?

Accepted Answer

On your 1998 Elantra, the remote head key is a single unit where the key blade and the fob are built into one piece. The blade turns the ignition cylinder the traditional way. Inside the plastic head is a transponder chip that the immobilizer reads at startup to verify the key is authorized before allowing the engine to run. The remote buttons on the head control door locking and unlocking separately from all of that.

Three things can fail independently: the blade can wear or break, the transponder chip can fail or lose its pairing, and the remote buttons can stop working. A dead remote side does not mean the car will not start. A failed transponder side means it will not, even if the blade turns fine. Knowing which part of the key has actually failed saves time and avoids replacing things that do not need replacing.

Question 3

My Hyundai shows a key warning and will not start. What should I check first?

Accepted Answer

On a 1998 Elantra this is a simpler diagnostic than on modern push-button cars. The key turns in the ignition cylinder, so if the engine cranks but immediately dies or does not start at all, the immobilizer not recognizing the transponder is a real possibility. A few things to check first: make sure you are using the correct key, not a copy that was cut but never had the transponder programmed. Also check that the key head is not cracked, since a damaged housing can shift the chip out of the read zone at the ignition.

If the engine starts and immediately stalls, that pattern points to an anti-theft component that I diagnose and sort out on site. It is not always a dead key. Sometimes it is a communication issue on the vehicle side. Either way, it is a diagnosable problem, not a reason to panic.

Question 4

I bought a replacement key online for my 1998 Elantra. Will it work as-is?

Accepted Answer

Probably not without additional work. A key bought online for this vehicle is typically an uncut blank with an unprogrammed transponder chip inside. Two things still need to happen: the blade has to be cut to match your specific ignition, and the transponder has to be paired to your car's immobilizer. An uncut, unprogrammed key will turn nothing and start nothing.

The blade cutting is done by code or by decoding your existing key or lock. The transponder programming requires the right equipment. Bring it along when you call, I can work with the blank you have rather than supplying a new one if the part you ordered is the correct type for this vehicle.

Question 5

Can I get a spare key made if I only have one working key left?

Accepted Answer

Yes, and honestly one working key on a 26-year-old car is a situation worth fixing sooner rather than later. If that one key fails or gets lost, an all-keys-lost job is more involved and takes longer than simply adding a spare while a working key is present.

I carry what I need for this generation Elantra and can handle the whole job in your driveway in Carmel Mountain Ranch. Blade cut, transponder paired, remote functions tested. You walk away with two working keys instead of one.

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