Question 1

How do I spot a fake locksmith before I get ripped off?

Accepted Answer

Three things worth checking before anyone touches your Forester.

First, look up the business name directly on Google and Yelp, not just the ad at the top of the search page. Scam operations rotate through dozens of names that all route to the same call center with no local presence.

Second, a real locksmith will ask your year, model, whether it's push-to-start or a turn key, and how many working keys you still have before giving any number. If the answer is a flat rate for any car before they know anything about yours, that's a tell.

Third, in California every locksmith operation is required to carry a BSIS license. Ask for the number on the call. A legitimate shop gives it without hesitation.

Question 2

What exactly is a smart key and how is it different from a regular key?

Accepted Answer

Your 2016 Forester uses a smart key, which is a fob that handles two separate jobs at once. The buttons on the outside control the remote functions. Inside the fob there's also a transponder chip that communicates with the immobilizer when you press the start button. Both sides have to check out before the engine runs.

That's different from a basic transponder key, which just sits in an ignition cylinder and gets read passively. The smart key talks to the car actively, which is why a dead fob battery or a lost enrollment means the car won't start even if nothing mechanical is wrong.

There's also a physical emergency blade folded inside the fob. If the fob battery dies completely and the proximity system stops responding, that blade lets you get into the door. The start process in a low-battery situation involves holding the fob directly against the button so the car can read the chip at close range.

One thing worth knowing: some locksmiths can clone an existing working key but can't originate a new one from scratch when all keys are lost. Those are two different capabilities. Make sure whoever you call can handle the all-keys-lost scenario if that's your situation.

Question 3

What tools do you actually use to program a Subaru smart key?

Accepted Answer

For the 2016 Forester smart key, the job goes through the OBD port using a professional immobilizer programmer that supports Subaru's body and immobilizer modules. The tool handles the enrollment sequence, including the timed countdown the system requires when registering a new fob.

For all-keys-lost situations the process is more involved. Depending on the job, that can mean reading data directly from the vehicle's immobilizer module to generate the correct pairing credentials, which requires equipment capable of that deeper access.

I don't do Subaru work with generic clone tools. If a locksmith can't tell you specifically what system in your car they're targeting and what tool they're using to reach it, that's worth asking twice before you let them start.

Question 4

My Forester shows a key warning light but the car still starts fine. Should I be worried?

Accepted Answer

That combination comes up on these cars and it's worth paying attention to. If the car starts but a key-related warning is sitting on the dash, a few things can cause it.

A low fob battery is the most common trigger. The car starts because the fob is close enough for the initial read, but the signal is weak enough to throw a warning. Swap the CR2032 first and see if the light clears.

If a fresh battery doesn't fix it, the fob enrollment may be partially degraded. That can happen after a battery drain, a jump start, or if the fob took a hard hit. The car still starts because it recognizes enough of the signal, but the communication isn't clean. That's a re-enrollment job.

Don't ignore it long-term. A partial handshake that works today can fail completely at the worst moment.

Question 5

Can I buy a fob online and have you program it, or does it have to be your part?

Accepted Answer

You can bring your own fob. Just verify it carries the correct factory FCC ID for the 2016 Forester before you buy. Aftermarket fobs are a gamble on these, some enroll cleanly, some don't take at all, and there's no way to know until the tool tries to pair it. If an aftermarket fob fails to enroll, you're still paying for the labor and you're back to sourcing a part.

OEM fobs sourced from a dealer or a reliable supplier tend to go smoothly. Your call on the tradeoff.

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