Question 1

What's the cheapest way to replace my 2011 Acura TSX flip key?

Accepted Answer

The factory FCC ID is on the back of your old fob if you still have it. The 2011 TSX uses a flip key across the lineup, so there's no trim-level split to worry about. A good mobile locksmith can cut the blade, enroll the transponder chip, and register the remote buttons on site in a single visit.

The dealer route tends to get broken into separate line items: the blank, the cut, and the programming appointment, and they usually need to order the key first. Going mobile skips the wait and the tow. If you have one working key, adding a spare is faster than starting from zero. If you're all-keys-lost, budget a little more time because the immobilizer has to clear its memory before new keys get registered.

Question 2

All keys lost on my 2011 TSX. Why does that job take longer than just adding a spare?

Accepted Answer

Blunt answer: the car has to forget the missing keys before it will accept anything new.

The immobilizer on the 2011 TSX stores multiple transponder IDs. When you have one working key, I can add a second alongside it. With zero keys, that shortcut is gone. I have to run a full delete-and-register sequence through the diagnostic port, clear the stored IDs, then enroll the new chip and sync the remote. Any key not present during that process gets locked out permanently, so a lost fob can't be used to start the car later.

The extra time isn't the cutting. It's the immobilizer reset sequence, which has a built-in timed step you can't skip.

Question 3

Are aftermarket flip keys cheaper, and will they actually work on a 2011 TSX?

Accepted Answer

Sometimes cheaper, yes. Whether they work depends on what's inside the shell.

The flip key needs two things to function: a transponder chip that the immobilizer will accept, and a remote board that outputs the correct signal. A lot of what I see sold online is a shell with no chip at all, or a board that works at half the range of the original from the first week. Matching the FCC ID on the listing doesn't tell you what's actually inside the case.

If you're re-casing an original board and chip into a new shell, that's fine, and the OEM hardware is worth keeping. If you're buying a complete aftermarket key and handing it to someone to program, ask them to verify the board and chip before they start, not after.

Question 4

My 2011 TSX starts fine but the remote lock and unlock buttons stopped working. Is the key failing?

Accepted Answer

Not necessarily. On these flip keys, the transponder and the remote are two separate systems sharing one housing. The transponder handles starting the car. The remote handles lock, unlock, and the other buttons over radio frequency. One can fail independently of the other.

First move: swap the CR1616. A weak battery will kill remote range before it kills the fob entirely, so the car starts fine but the buttons do nothing past a few feet, or nothing at all. If a fresh battery doesn't bring it back, the board itself may have failed or lost its pairing. That's a re-sync job at the diagnostic port, not a full replacement. Worth checking before you buy a new key.

Question 5

Can I program a second 2011 TSX flip key myself at home?

Accepted Answer

Not on the transponder side. The immobilizer enrollment on the 2011 TSX requires a diagnostic tool connected at the OBD port. There is no ignition-turn sequence or button trick that registers a new chip on this vehicle. That DIY relearn method applies to older, simpler systems, not this generation.

The remote button pairing is a separate matter, and some owners have had luck with an onboard sequence for syncing the remote portion only, but that does nothing for the transponder. If the blade is cut correctly but the chip isn't enrolled, the car will crank and immediately stall. You need both sides done right.

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