Question 1

How do I spot a fake locksmith before I get ripped off?

Accepted Answer

Three things. First, a real business name with a verifiable physical address and Google or Yelp reviews that go back more than a few months. Scam operations run dozens of phone numbers under different names that all route to the same call center -- those outfits buy top-slot ads and often have poor ratings on the BBB regardless of how polished the website looks.

Second, ask for a firm price estimate over the phone for your specific vehicle. If they won't give you a number without seeing the car, or the price jumps significantly once they arrive, walk away.

Third, ask for their California BSIS license number on the spot. Every legitimate locksmith company operating in this state is required to have one and should be able to give it to you immediately. If they hesitate or change the subject, that tells you what you need to know.

Question 2

What exactly is a mechanical key and what does replacement involve?

Accepted Answer

A mechanical key is exactly what it sounds like -- a metal key with no remote functions, no fob battery, no buttons. The 2015 Audi TT in base trim uses one. Replacement means cutting a new key blade to match your vehicle's specific lock profile.

The cut can be done two ways: by pulling the key code from your VIN through a professional key code database, or by decoding the existing lock directly if a working key is unavailable. Either way, the result is a metal key cut to fit your car's locks and ignition.

No programming, no fob pairing, no electronics to worry about on the replacement side. The job lives and dies on the accuracy of the cut.

Question 3

What equipment do you use to cut and decode Audi keys?

Accepted Answer

For a mechanical key job on the 2015 TT, the critical tool is a machine capable of cutting the side-milled blade profile this generation uses. A basic edge-cut duplicator won't do it. I use a dedicated code-cutting machine paired with professional key code databases that cross-reference the VIN to the correct key code and blade specification.

If the VIN route isn't available for some reason, I can decode directly off the door lock or ignition cylinder using picks and a reader specific to that lock type. The goal either way is the same: a key cut with the precision this blade profile demands, tested in the lock before I leave.

Question 4

I only have one key for my TT. Is it worth getting a spare cut now, or can I wait until I actually lose it?

Accepted Answer

Get the spare now. Here's why it matters on this specific car: the blade profile on the 2015 TT is not something a hardware store or a mall kiosk can duplicate. If you lose your only key, the job becomes a decode-from-the-lock job, which takes longer. Having one working key present when I arrive means I can pull the cut directly from that key and have a spare ready fast. Losing your only key adds steps and time to the job. A spare cut from an existing key is the quickest, cleanest version of this.

Question 5

My 2015 TT key turns in the ignition but feels stiff or gets stuck. Is that a key problem or an ignition problem?

Accepted Answer

Could be either, but start with the key. A worn blade will still turn but may not engage the wafers cleanly, which creates resistance and occasionally causes the key to bind on the way out. Compare it against any spare if you have one.

If a freshly cut key has the same stiffness, the issue is more likely in the ignition cylinder itself -- worn or sticky wafers, debris inside the cylinder, or a lock that needs service. That's a separate job from key cutting, but worth knowing before you assume the key is the problem.

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